Progreso is a center for both the fishing industry and the container industry. All containers arrive in Progreso and are distributed to Yucatán, Campeche and Quintana Roo.

Progreso also is one of the newest ports for large cruise ships and an emerging balneario resort destination. Passengers disembark on a very long pier that juts out 6.5 km (4 miles) into the Gulf of Mexico. Passengers are taken to shore to visit Progreso, Mérida or the Maya civilization archaeological sites of Uxmal and Dzibilchaltun.

During the months of July and August the beaches fill with thousands of mostly local tourists, as it is traditional in these months for well-to-do residents of Mérida to leave the city and spend the summer in the cooler seaside environment.

The Catedral de San Ildefonso is the first Cathedral built on the continent (1561 to 1598). In typical Spanish fashion, the stones were taken from the city (Tiho) which was conquered. Easy to spot on the east side of the Plaza.

The Bishop’s Palace (next to the Cathedral) is now the “Museo de Arte Contemporaneo Ateneo de Yucatan” and houses contemporary art from the Yucatan.

On the south side of the Plaza Mayor is the Palacio Montejo (Francisco Montejo Sr. & Jr. conquered the area). Originally built by Francisco Montejo Jr. in 1552, the Palace was home to the Montejo family’s descendants until the 1970′s. The building was restored by a banker who also converted it into a bank.

On the west side of the Plaza, you will find the Town Hall (Palacio Municipal). The building was originally built with stones from the city of Tiho, then rebuilt in 1735 and rebuilt again in 1928.

The New Olympus (Nuevo Olimpo) is the newest building in the Plaza Mayor, but the builders did a good job of keeping the flavor of the old. The building houses concerts, conferences, theatrical performances, a gallery, a cafe and bookstore.

Excursions :
Progreso : A nice little beach escape just an hour north of Merida. Busses leave from the station on Calle 62 between Calle 65 and 67. details.

Izamal : A quaint little town 50 miles east of Merida was constructed in the midst of four large pyramids (one has been partially restored).

Kabah : Located just south of Uxmal, take Highway 261 towards Santa Elena for a half mile, then turn towards Kabah (8 more miles). Rather than the highway leading to the ruins, the highway actually goes through the ruins. The most famous building here is the Palace of Masks which is covered with 250 masks of the rain god Chaac.

Sayil : Go just 3 miles south of Kabah and turn left for Sayil (2.5 miles). Most famous for the triple terraced El Palacio.

Labna : Just 5.5 miles past Sayil (with Xlapak in between). The close proximity of these ruins leads one to understand that at its peak, these cities would have been no more than local centers for people whose houses surrounded each center. If you lived then and walked the ancient road from here to Uxmal . . . you would have a hard time determining exactly where one community ended and the next began.

Dzilbilchaltun : Just 10 miles north of Merida (on the road to Progreso). The ruins were founded around 500 B.C. and went into decline before the arrival of the Spaniards. 8000 buildings have presently been mapped but as the site was only rediscovered in 1941, much of the city still lies under the jungle which grew over it.

Sian Ka’an means “where the sky is born” in the language of the Mayans, who ruled the land before the Spanish arrived, and staring at the horizon I was sure that if the sky did have a birthplace it could only be somewhere as sublime as the Yucatán, and particularly the coastal area south of Cancún known as the Riviera Maya.

This is an idyllic part of Mexico, blessed with white sands, superb ruins and beautiful natural landscapes. Unfortunately, that’s not a picture the world usually associates with Mexico. Hurricanes, swine flu and ferocious drug wars have put the country on the map for all the wrong reasons and driven visitors away. But the Riviera Maya, the easternmost part of Mexico, is gradually winning the image war, making the most of what Nature, and the ancient Mayan civilisation, bequeathed it.

Yukatán Peninsula: essential travel information

The jewel in this crown is Chichén Itza, the emblem of Mayan culture. It was voted one of the seven new wonders of the world and it is easy to see why it made such a list. The large site, a three-hour drive from the Riviera, includes the Great Ball Court, a 300ft arena where the Mayans played a game that bears the closest resemblance to Harry Potter’s quidditch – shooting balls through large hoops high in the air. The winning captain had the “honour” of being decapitated, taking him nearer to the gods.

Five little ones from 3 to 5 years of age competed in a race spanning 30 meters. Fueled on by the cheers of their parents and children who were in the audience and as well enjoyed this activity where all were winners.

Young people and adults on the other hand enjoyed the Zumba macroclasses and at the end of the activation rode their bikes to the municipality of Cacalchén, the route of the difficult biciruta which is about 2 hours long. For those walking the distance was 24 miles round trip.

On Sundays the city of Motul is offering recreational and leisure activities for families Motuleños, Mayor MCD. Mario Sosa Lugo, invites you to join this ongoing crusade for health and fitness.

The program “Motul Activate!” is launched every Sunday in front of the municipal building starting at 8:00 am.

Capital city Mérida is a fascinating study in contrasts: chaotic yet laid-back, style-conscious yet steeped in tradition, cosmopolitan yet disarmingly friendly. The threads of European colonialism and ancient Mayan civilizations are woven through the fabric of this region, from the colorful facades of the 19th century colonial casas in Mérida’s elegant downtown to the archeological ruins of Chichén Itzá.

5…Take in some free culture

Mérida has been a cultural and artistic center since the conquistadors rode into town in the 16th century and long before that when it was an important Mayan settlement. Celebration is endemic here: something lively goes on every day in the city’s many squares or plazas.

The Vaquera Folkloric Ballet, the traditional dance of the Yucatan, is a free event that happens every Monday at 9pm. Held on the first floor of the Municipal Palace in the main square or Plaza Grande, it’s a great introduction to Yucatan folk dancing, with women in huipiles or traditional white embroidered dresses and men in guayabera shirts, accompanied by the Jaranera Orchestra

Old-timers pack Santiago Park on Tuesday nights, dressed in their finery and solemnly dancing to a big band playing rollicking 1950s tunes, while Saturday night is Noche Mexicana, a raucous street festival that takes over the Centro Historico. As soon as the sun goes down, prepare for crowds in the streets off the main plaza. On the main stage, deafeningly loud music acts play to audiences in rows of seats lined up in front of restaurants and cafes, while hammock sellers and trinket-vendors weave in and out of the crowd hawking their wares.

For a dose of calm, tour Mérida’s most beautiful theater, the stately Teatro José Peón Contreras (Calle 60 between 59 and 57; 999 930 4708), a neoclassical building just off the plaza that often hosts opera and international performances.

4… Add a new World Wonder to your brag list

Head east of Mérida on a 1 ½ -hour bus ride for one of the new Seven Wonders of the World, Chichén Itzá, an ancient Mayan city and archeological site. Historians estimate it was built around 600 AD. Stone pyramids loom out of the jungle and rows of monolithic stone columns stand like sentinels in the Temple of the Thousand Warriors.

Up close there’s even more to marvel at. The sides of the structures are embellished with intricate carvings of animals and sacred deities like Chac, the Mayan rain god. At the center of the site, the majestic El Castillo pyramid is remarkable for both its size and the plumed serpent sculpted along its stairs. At sunset and sunrise during the spring and autumn equinoxes, the shadows and light move in such a way along the structure that it appears the serpent is “slithering,” a sight that draws hordes of tourists. Don’t miss the ghoulishly fascinating Great Ball Court, in which teams would engage in a soccer-like game for the dubious honor of being sacrificed by beheading. . The admission fee, around $7, includes access to the daily light and sound show, 8pm in summer, 7pm in winter.

Buses run by company ADO leave for Chichén Itzá three times a day from the Came station at Calle 71, between 69 and 70; around $5 each way.

3… Master the art of Yucatecan cooking, and eating

The state of Yucatan’s relative isolation from the rest of Mexico has given rise to the evolution of a unique cuisine. Menus around town yield worthy traditional dishes like cochinita, pit-roasted pork marinated in achiote paste, and sopa de lima, a fragrant chicken soup. Try Panchos (Calle 69, between 60 and 62; 01 999 927 0434; trottersmerida.com; main dishes, from $10-25) a buzzy restaurant with a romantic, leafy patio and performing waiters; the flamboyant pouring of flaming Mexican coffee laced with spirits is a particular crowd pleaser.

Be sure to take time to hit the city’s colorful markets. The labyrinthine corridors of the main mercato, just off the Plaza Grande, are intoxicating, fun, and maddening all at once. Vendors selling towers of glossy fruits and vegetables or fragrant herbs and spices jostle with the ubiquitous hammock sellers for your attention, as do the butchers, grinning from behind gruesome displays of hanging flesh. The smaller markets at Parque Santiago and Parque Santa Ana, both a short walk from the Plaza, are less chaotic. After perusing the wares, pull up a plastic chair and tuck into cochinita with freshly pressed tortillas from one of the many street stalls.

You can also learn the basics of Yucatecan cuisine at cooking school Los Dos (Calle 68 No. 517; book in advance, $125 per person.) Former New Yorker David Sterling is an enthusiastic chef with a devotion to local history and cuisine. A full-day class with Chef David Sterling starts with breakfast on the elegant Los Dos patio, followed by an introduction to Mayan culinary history and a tour of the markets. Instruction begins at midday, and finishes with a lavish meal poolside.

2… Get house envy

You can peek inside some of Mérida’s finest restored colonial homes with a House and Garden walking tour that leaves from the Mérida English Library each Wednesday morning. Arrive at the library at 9:45am, from October through March; tours last until about 12:30 pm (Calle 53 between 66 and 68; no reservation required; around $15 per person). The entertaining American guides choose three properties from a roster of homeowners willing to fling their doors open to the masses. All the homes are within walking distance of the library, in the Centro Histórico, and each has a story to tell. Some are fully restored to their former glory, floors gleaming with beautiful colored pasta tiles (originally brought over as ballast in Spanish ships), and ceilings resplendent with vigas wood beams. Others are palatial Spanish or French Colonial gems currently under restoration.

Not only are the tours ideal for borrowing decorating ideas, they also provide a wonderful insight into Mérida life, both historic and contemporary. Refuel after all that walking and gawking at Amaro (Calle 59 between 60 and 62; 928 2452), a restaurant set in the courtyard of a house once belonging to politician and poet Andrés Quintana Roo, after whom the adjoining Mexican state is named. A spreading tree provides welcome shade while Mexican menu staples like fajitas and mole are satisfyingly hearty.

1… Walk in the footsteps of the conquistadors

While many visitors to the city don’t leave the Centro Historico, it’s well worth visiting the Paseo Montejo, the wide, elegant boulevard regarded as Merida’s answer to the Champs Élysées. After the cramped, noisy, bus-clogged streets of Centro, Paseo Montejo – named for Francisco de Montejo, who formally claimed the city for Spain in 1542 – provides welcome relief with its wide sidewalks and majestic trees.

Stroll north of Calle 37 past palatial 19th century Beaux-Arts mansions that reflect that era’s obsession with European architecture and lifestyle. Finish with a margarita on the rooftop bar at Rosas and Xocolate (Paseo de Montejo 480; +52 999 924 4304; rosasandxocolate.com) Merida’s first true luxury boutique hotel. You can’t miss this place; its painstakingly restored exterior is painted hot pink. Inside, all is light-filled and serene, and the bar – reached via a cedar spiral staircase – catches the always-welcome breezes as the sun sets on another perfect Yucatan day.

Governor Ivonne Ortega Pacheco was today in a meeting with businessmen from the UK, led by the Commercial Counselor of the British Embassy in Mexico, Fernando Estandia, in order to discuss the scope of this project.

It is announced that on February they will have a meeting with the head of the Ministry of Communications and Transport (SCT), Dionisio Perez-Jacome Friscione, the focus will be to formulate the technical working group of the train.

During the meeting, which was also attended by Secretary of Public Works, Francisco Torre Rivas, and the Secretary of Economic Development, Víctor Cervera Hernandez, as well as officials of the SCT Yucatán Center, state officials and British businessmen who shared their experiences in financing, technical cooperation and the development plans within the railway sector.

After welcoming the investors, the Governess stressed that the Trans-peninsular Fast Train is a key project for the southeast region of Yucatan and Mexico, “because it represents a major challenge in public works and because of its complexity.”

Tim Gray, of the Railroad Industry Association of Britain, on behalf of the investors, expressed his pleasure at being in Yucatan and in knowing the large-scale railway project that the State Government has, while highlighting his experiences in representing companies in infrastructure construction and operation of trains in the world.

At the meeting, Ortega Pacheco stressed the importance of willingness and commitment of employers and the authorities of friendly countries asking them to review this project and consider their possible participation.

After the meeting, the British businessmen toured the ex-train station in Merida and traveled to Izamal, this route will form a part of the Fast Train`s route on its path to Riviera Maya.

To the left, Ixcacao, the goddess of cacao, rises up from a bottom shelf. Her hair flows in rows of cacao beans. Above, a bust of King Pacal of Palenque looks out over the dominion of the showroom — as if he still rules. On a table, a small vase bookmarks a reference book; it is the very likeness of the vase captured on the page.

Welcome to Los Ceibos in Muna, a little town about 50 kilometres south of Merida. Here, three artisans – Rodrigo Martin Morales, his sister Patricia Martin and her husband Julián create quality archaeological reproductions of Mayan art in wood, stone, jade and clay – the originals housed in museums around the world.

Each has a specialty: Rodrigo sculpts; Julián spins the ceramic vases, plates and bowls on the wheel; and Patricia paints the intricate tales of Mayan life and ritual on the ceramics.

A Gift of the Earth
Patricia invites interested visitors back to the workshop. Paint brushes, plates and pigment-stained bottles, a reference book and a vase-in-progress lay across the discoloured surface of the worktable.

Los Ceibos ceramics have a lustre that comes exclusively from hand polishing with quartz stones, instead of varnishes or glazes, explains Patricia. To demonstrate, she plucks a chunk of quartz from the worktable and brushes a small piece of dry, but unfired pottery. Within a few strokes the surface is buffed to a satin sheen.

“Everything is natural,” says Julián. A good ceramic reproduction is made with natural clay and pigments, he explains. The clay at Los Ceibos, for example, is a custom blend collected in nature that produces a hard and smooth surface in the finished pottery.

Two times a year, Julián travels to Palenque in Chiapas, Tabasco and the area around Ticul to find clay for the workshop. “I go and I harvest with my own hands,” he says. Natural pigments, some collected locally, create the traditional Mayan colour palette.

Passion and Appreciation
During the classic period, 150 AD to 900 AD, Mayan art reached its zenith and the pottery of the period displays detailed and intricate images. These elaborate designs are Patricia’s passion and her favourite pieces to paint. “All [the vases] are beautiful,” she says. “The more complicated the reproduction, the more I like it.”

Even without a website, word of Patricia’s talent and the quality and craftsmanship of Los Ceibos reproductions is slowly spreading. Museums in both Los Angeles and Mexico City sell Los Ceibos reproductions in their gift shops. In the Netherlands, visitors to the Maya 2012 exhibit at Leiden’s Museum of Ethnology can now purchase one of Patricia’s intricately painted classic-period vases too.

You’ll find Los Ceibos in Muna on Calle 13 (between 25 y 28). Bring cash; they accept pesos, US dollars and Euros. Note! there is no bank in Muna and the closest ATM is 16 kilometers away at the ruins of Uxmal.

Faithful Replicas in Ticul
Another 22 kilometers down the road sits Ticul, a fair-sized town known for pottery. Planter pots of every size as well as tourist keepsakes like brilliant green frogs and pink-glazed flamingos abound. The town is also home to Arte Maya, an association of artisans who have investigated and studied Mayan ceramics as a science since 1973.

Arte Maya, located on Calle 23 x 46, houses a joint workshop/showroom and a very special collector’s room. A great bas relief sculpture, easily five-feet square, dominates the entrance of the workshop. A simple wooden frame makes the relief look crated and ready for shipping. In fact, the bas relief has travelled to France, Germany and Texas as part of a Banamex Mayan art exposition.

Don Luis Echeverria Villalobos, one of Arte Maya’s artisans, is on hand to greet visitors. He graciously explains Arte Maya’s work and offers a tour of the masterpieces in the collector’s room. This smaller room, he says, displays faithful replicas of great Mayan vases, Jaina Island figurines, plates and much more. Each faithful replica matches every detail of the original: dimension, weight, pattern and patina — even the cracks and missing pieces are reproduced.

For the Love of it
To achieve a faithful replica, the artisans of Arte Maya employ the same materials and archaic ceramic techniques used by the ancient Maya. “We do it, because we love it,” says Don Luis as he proudly displays a museum-quality replica.
Just five copies of any one piece are ever created for collectors — each one taking up to six months to complete. A signed certificate of authenticity accompanies the reproduction and identifies the piece by name and its number in the series.

A vase in the collector’s room costs about $2,000 USD. The price may seem steep, but the gift shop at New York’s famous Metropolitan Museum sells these faithful replicas for 10 times that amount.

Arte Maya also produces lower-priced, quality reproductions for its main showroom. You’ll find a selection of frequently reproduced plates; small bowls and smaller Jaina Island figurines. Whether producing a piece for the main showroom or one commissioned by a collector, the artisans of Arte Maya are committed to their craft. Says Don Luis: “We use the same techniques.”

Along the Ruta Puuc, artisans like Patricia, Julián and Don Luis offer curious visitors an opportunity to unearth the ancient artistry of the Mayans for themselves. As the day ends and the car travels north-east back towards Merida, a Jaina Island figurine and a small three-footed pot sit on the back seat — two relics exhumed from an imaginary dig in Muna and Ticul.

Visit Arte Maya online at: Arte Maya on the web

Want to live here? http://yucatanrealestateservices.com/

CAN FOREIGNERS REALLY OWN PROPERTY IN MEXICO?

Yes, Americans and other foreigners may obtain direct ownership of property in the interior of Mexico. Yucatan International Real Estate Services can help you through the entire process.  However, under Mexican law, foreigners cannot own property outright within the restricted zone. Instead, a real estate trust must be set up to hold title for the foreigner. Since foreigners are not able to enter into contracts in buy real estate, they must have a bank act on their behalf, much as a trust is use to hold property for minors because they also can not contract. The following is a brief outline of the law regarding such trust, known as “fideicomisos”, but potential buyers should always get advice and have all real estate transactions overview by a licensed Mexican attorney.

WHO’S INVOLVED IN REAL ESTATE TRANSACTIONS IN MEXICO?

Normally, there are three to four players involved in any real estate transaction in the restricted zone:
•    A real estate company
•    The buyer’s lawyer
•    A bank
•    A public notary

Yucatan International Real Estate Services is your real estate company in the Yucatan and works with many experience professionals in the above areas.

All four players are helpful in their respective areas in assisting with real estate transactions. Transactions outside of the restricted zone do not involve a bank since it is not necessary to establish a real estate trust in those areas. Otherwise the transactions are much the same.

Because of the similarities of real estate transactions in general, it is easy to assume that the basic terms and principles which are familiar in the United States also hold true in Mexico. This assumption becomes easier to make when United States real estate terminology is adopted for transactions in Mexico. Much of the paperwork is similar, if not exactly the same, as that used in the US. Although, there are many aspects of Mexican real estate transactions that are identical to procedures carried out in the United States, there are many aspects that are completely different. As a rule, a foreigner should assume nothing.

Mexican real estate transactions are not carried out in the same manner as United States real estate transactions. The buyer must retain professionals to assist in the transaction. Mexico has yet to regulate real estate transactions. Real estate agents and brokers are not legally licensed in Mexico. Consequently, a foreign buyer cannot always depend on the normal safeguards that would be applied to real estate transactions in the United States. The old saying “let the buyer beware” is very appropriate. Anyone can set up a real estate company in Mexico. There are no special requirements or brokerage licenses to obtain. A would-be real estate agent merely has to establish a Mexican corporation, obtain a work visa, and he is in business.  

There are good reasons why the real estate industry in the United States is highly regulated. Until the real estate industry is regulated in Mexico, there will always be some real estate companies who prefer that buyers know as little as possible about real estate transactions. After all, a buyer cannot ask questions if he does not have any knowledge of the laws.

Currently there is nothing similar to a Real Estate Commissioner or a Department of Real Estate in Mexico. Some states are beginning to look at some kind of real estate legislation, but it might be some time before this is a reality.  Yucatan International Real Estate Services takes pride in our reputation and wants your buying experience to be positive.  We work hard to ensure that the property buying process meets or exceeds the level of professionalism in the US and Canada.

A Mexican attorney should be involved to draw up contracts and to review the conditions and terms of sale. Additionally, an attorney can do a title search and point out any problems or alternatives a buyer may have. Yucatan International Real Estate Services works with a number of highly qualified attorneys in the Yucatan. Legally, only a licensed Mexican attorney should provide advice on the law.  To be sure that an attorney is licensed in Mexico, a foreign buyer should ask to see the attorney’s license, or have the attorney’s license number included in a retainer agreement before employing any services.

American attorneys are not licensed to practice law in Mexico and should not give advice on Mexican Law. There are currently very few Americans who are licensed to practice law in Mexico. The fact that a person is licensed to practice law in the United States in no way allows him or her to practice law in Mexico: Mexican or United States law.

Besides formalizing your real estate transaction, an attorney can be very helpful in saving you money. This is because attorneys are involved in many different transactions and have contacts with banks, notaries, and the Mexican government on a regular basis. Because of this they are aware of the most competitive cost and fees involved in a transaction and can make sure that the buyer is given the best possible prices. An attorney can also inform the buyer regarding his or her legal options and by doing so can make sure that no opportunities are missed: tax planning considerations, closing costs which should be paid by the seller, and ways of taking title to the trust rights which make sense for the particular circumstances of a specific buyer. Very often one piece of good advice can save the buyer thousands of dollars in tax savings or other savings when the buyer eventually sells the property.

When looking for an attorney it is important to remember that any Mexican attorney can normally handle a real estate transaction. The buyer is not limited to only the local attorneys where the property is located. All real estate transactions involving a trust are governed by federal law. This means that all such transactions are carried out the same way regardless if the property is in Cancun or Los Cabos.

THE RESTRICTED ZONE AND “FIDEICOMISOS”

 
The law declares that the Mexican nation has original ownership to all land and water in Mexico, as well as minerals, salts, ore deposits, natural gas and oil; but that such ownership may be assigned to individuals.

The Mexican Constitution prohibits direct ownership of real estate by foreigners in what has come to be known as the “restricted zone.” The restricted zone encompasses all land located within 100 kilometers (about 62 miles) of any Mexican border, and within 50 kilometers (about 31 miles) of any Mexican coastline. However, in order to permit foreign investment in these areas, the Mexican government created the “fideicomiso,” (FEE-DAY-E-CO-ME-SO) which is, roughly translated, a real estate trust. Essentially, this type of trust is similar to trusts set up in the United States, but a Mexican bank must be designated as the trustee and, as such, has title to the property and is the owner of record. The Mexican Government created the “fideicomiso” to reconcile the problems involved in developing the restricted zone and to attract foreign capital. This enabled foreigners, as beneficiaries of the trusts, to enjoy unrestricted use of land located in the restricted zone without violating the law.

A “fideicomiso” is a trust agreement created for the benefit of a foreign buyer, executed between a Mexican bank and the seller of property in the restricted zone. Foreign buyers cannot own real estate in the restricted zone due to Constitutional restrictions. The bank acts on behalf of the foreign buyer, taking title to real property. The bank, as trustee, buys the property for the foreigner, then has a fiduciary obligation to follow instructions given by the foreigner who is the trust beneficiary. The trust beneficiary retains and enjoys all the rights of ownership while the bank holds title to the property. The foreigner is entitled to use, enjoy, and even sell the property that is held in trust at its market value to any eligible buyer.

In order to allow foreigners to enter into the agreement contained in the Calvo Clause, Mexico requires all foreigners to apply for and obtain a permit from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs prior to contracting to acquire real estate in Mexico. This is currently done by the trustee/bank at the time a real estate trust is set-up.

Given the changes made for 1997 in the foreign investment Law, and the fact that a buyer can now apply for and obtain a trust permit in a matter of days, it is always better to secure the trust permit from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs before entering into any contract.